October 23 Basaseachic to Batopolis (town at bottom of copper canyon).
Copper Canyon was the place that both of us wanted to ride to after reading about others rides in this area of Mexico. We were excited about the day and covering some ground along the way.
Weather Warm and Sunny
Mileage about 180 miles.
Basaseachic was a mining town, and our hotel had many miners staying there. You can tell it is a difficult life for them. As we have ridden in this part of Mexico we are taking in all the conditions that people live in, and asking ourselves did you see that place or another. Many people waiting in very remote areas and we think that they are waiting for buses. Too much of the culture that we are still just taking in.
Nice twisty roads through the national park on Hwy 23 heading to Creel. We did not see many cars as it was early Sunday Morning.
We stopped for gas and breakfast “Desayunas” in Creel. We had planned to get there yesterday but no that we are not riding after dark, so we stopped a bit early.
We were enjoying the paved twisty roads south of Creel and heading into Copper Canyon. It is well over a mile vertical down into the canyon in about 5-6 miles of rough gravel road. The scenery is awesome and breathtaking as you ride down. But you musty maintain focus because you are acutely aware that there are no guard rails and getting emergency help here would be long and might be too late. We are both excited and giddy as we ride this road. Hooting and hollering with the excitement and beauty that is before us.
Riding into almost every town are “topes” most are LARGE speed bumps, but in some places are these metal bumps.
Here is the butcher. Still trying to learn more words of spanish as we go. People have been very helpful and patient as we try ot communicate in poor spanish. We ask them to repeat names and sentences often so we can learn.
Lots of Indigenous people dressed in there customary bright outfit on the women and young girls. Men have jeans, cowboy hats and long sleeve shirts. Have not stopped to take pictures as it feels funny to do so. Do not want to steal their souls as some worry.
It is a great paved road… with an occasional pick up truck or vehicle, but not many.
Great Motorcycle roads!!
We have been riding at 6,000-9,000 feet the last few days. We are nearing Copper Canyon, we start to see the geology changing.
Sam is down at the end of the road as I stop to capture a photo. Then I had to catch up
Along the entire ride in Mexico we have seen Memorial Shrines. We stopped to get a photo of this one. Sam says; “there is a candle burning in this one” and we are a long way from any town or village.
Some are larger and fancier. Not sure if that is a status thing or ?
Candle burning. with a statue of Jesus Christ or Mary as we are in a primarily Catholic country.
Beautiful area. But you feel remote here, as we do not see too many people or cars.
Lots of Donkey’s, Horses, cows, dogs along the side of the road. Have to be careful as you come around blind corners
In this section of road, all the drainage ditches are cement and painted White. Not sure why. Keep reminding me of Snow along the side of the road.
Radioman does the “Ruta Muerte”
We start thinking is the road paved all the way? But we reached the construction zone at 42 KM from Batopilas the goal to reach for tonight. It is around one so we feel good.
This is why we ride dual sport bikes. We just keep on riding.
I am taking pictures of the road gravel construction zone…
Then the construction turned to loose soft dirt and rocks. I was not really focusing on my riding, taking photo on the fly and taking in the fact that we were on the ride we had dreamed about. and all of a sudden…..
the front end dug in and off I went yu can see Sam coming back to check on me.
Yup down I went. All is ok. Dust myself off, no injuries bike is find, hard bags popped off with No damage (love my Gobi bags )
Only ripped my front Pannier bag since it was first down. Will have to repair it later.
Here was my path ….
This is Sams view as he rides back up.
As we were regrouping we see a couple bikes up the hill. one GS guy from Mexico, I walk back and tell him it is a small section, he rides through, stops and is talking with his friends on radio. They decide they are on tourances and will not take the road down. They head out and back toward Hermosillo.
Ready to ride…. Heading down to the real part of the Canyon. We are both supper psyched about this part of the ride. Wahoooo
Still Donkeys down here!!
As we start to get to the edge of the canyon, we see the vastness, and beauty that is breathtaking.
Switchbacks take us down quickly.
We stop to try and that it all in. Amazing!!
The walls on the other side of the canyon are amazing …..
A small river at the bottom of the canyon. We have been told that they have gotten very little rain this year. We can see the many places that water would rundown if they had rain. Wow.
Once we cross over the bridge it is still another 20 miles to Batopilas.
The road winds along the face of the canyon. The views are staggering beautiful. We are taking it all in. This is the true dual sporting that we enjoy. It is also alot of work on big bikes that are loaded.
As we finally roll into Batopilas we are not sure where the hotels are. It is a town of 1,600 and I stop at this building and ask in my poor spanish if this is a hotel. I was told Si Si. Ok. Door is lock…. A woman points across the street at another grated door into a lovely courtyard. I say “aqui” Si SI… So I holler “Buenos Tardes, Hola” and a woman appears. I ask again in my limited spanish. “Teine Habatacione libres” Si Si. “Quanto es?” $400 pesos (just over $35 with breakfast in the am) for two beds two person.
The name of the Hotel is Hotel Real De San Pedro Proprietor is : Lilia Morales Manjarrez.
Sam is thrilled to be here!
the top floor was still under construction. and we were the only people staying here. as a matter of fact, we have not seen any other Gingo’s on the trip since we entered Mexico. None.
The lobby is beautiful
We take a shower, relax and get ready to explore Batopilas, have dinner and a few Cerveza’s to Celebrate getting down the Canyon.
I check the damage to the bag, and the Hotel owner gave me some heavy thread and needles so I can sew it back up. Frankenstein style
This is the main church inside. We were told their is a Restuarente in town.
We find the bar/resturant. They have a great map painted on the wall.
We stop for a Cerveza, and we have a 3 beer limit. But these are big!
Sam has finally ditched his watch…
Sam is the first to go to the “Bano”
outdooor toilet for the men.
There are no women in the bar, but quickly as the only Gingos in town we have a dialog with the guys next to us. Do not remember all there Names But Louis and Jimmie were two. They started talking to us about Baseball. I do not follow baseball but Sam does. Soon they are “talking” in little bits of Spanish and english. Go Texas, not Cardinals. And Yankees got the thumbs down form the guy on the right. it was fun! Barriers break down quickly.
Sam and his new Baseball Amigos.
We then had dinner next door, as this appears to just be a bar. Food was great cost us about $4 dollars for dinner
I personally do not really drink Soda Pop, but I did have a fanta with dinner. Seems like I was a kid last I had one.
Back to the Bar to finish off our evening. We leave a little hint that we have been there. “NO permiso” senior…. a story to tell later!